
EDITORIAL
Hidden Colabs
Bike Industry X Collaborations
To avoid the risk of having some folks in jacked-up Ford F150s parked outside my apartment tonight blaring 103.1 New Country FM and crushing Budweisers. I'm going to start by throwing out an honourable mention to We Are One's Da Package colab with 77 Designz. Which I think would be really, really interesting in a 12° and 16° backsweep (hint, hint). Whether the 375 CAD Kamloops-made carbon bar and aluminum stem are in your wheelhouse or not, they're a great example of what collaborations can, and should, result in. Unique products combining both firms' talents and technology.
The bike industry, of course, has a long history of marketing collaborations. 99% of the time that's paying Troy Lee to design graphics for your frame, handlebar, cranks, or underpants. There’s also the occasional combination of some brand's logo printed on a limited edition colour of some other brand's existing product with results that look cool. For the most part though, these aren’t creating anything new or innovative.
But, some collaborations are not marketed at all, my favourite one appears to have happened entirely by accident, and occasionally I have a daydream I'm capable of merging myself. Here are two existing colabs that I think are awesome, and un(der)-reported, and one I had to made happen myself.
Wolf Tooth x Giant
I'm going to start off with my DIY effort as I'm still a bit giddy about this one. I've been truly enjoying the Wolf Tooth EnCase multi-tool and the 12° Fasst Flexx bars I've been using with the one issue that they are not compatible with each other. EnCase will not fit into bars with a narrower ID than 17.5mm and that includes the Flexx bar along with a fair number of other carbon options.
At the same time, I noted in February that Giant's magnetic Clutch Fork system would be a great place to house an inverted-EDC tool but as someone who never uses a CO2 inflator on the trail, I didn't feel it was living up to its potential.
It would be easy enough for Wolf Tooth to manufacture a beautiful beveled insert with a magnet that would interface with the Clutch cap but for my quick and dirty duo, the missing link ended up being an old ISIS-spline crank bolt that was exactly the right OD and length to thread into the EnCase rubber sleeve.

Giant's Clutch Fork system combines a steerer tube insert and a plastic cap, designed to hold a CO2 cartridge, that threads in.

Wolf Tooth's EnCase multi-tool is a delight to use with 14x functions and a rubber casing to keep things quiet.
Starting from scratch, all the pieces are available to build this exact setup piecemeal. It isn't cheap but it works really well if carrying a great tool in your steerer tube is a life goal.
Giant sells the whole Clutch Fork tool for 40 USD | 55 CAD but it's also possible to buy the fork inserts and the threaded cap separately. From your local Giant dealer, it's 23 CAD for the steerer insert and 20 CAD for the cap. Whatever bike shop you regularly deal with will be happy to toss you a random crank bolt if they haven't recycled them all so I'm calling that a $0 add-on.
From Wolf Tooth the EnCase multi-tool on its own is 71 CAD and just buying rubber sleeves, without the end caps, is 29 CAD for a pair.
That's 143 CAD, or about 105 USD, to assemble the tool as seen. That sounds like a lot but it's comparable to buying a OneUp EDC once you add up the tool, top-cap and steerer plug, and tap kit.

In the world of Giant's Clutch system, their fork system transports a CO2 cartridge and inflator. I don't use CO2, but what an amazing place to store a multi-tool if you have one that fits inside a steerer tube!

The Giant Clutch system is really well sealed. The first here is from me riding without my tool installed and failing to clean it out before reinstalling.

The base of the Clutch tool has a magnet. The EnCase tool is wrapped in rubber for silent transport. It's just a matter of combining the two.

I pulled out the aluminum bar end plug from the EnCase encasement and pushed in an old crank bolt instead. This is from a thin-walled ISIS-spline axle.

It takes a few seconds longer to retrieve the tool than when it is stuff in my handlebar but it works with every bar and grip combo out there now.
This system is dead silent in both the Manitou Mezzer and Cane Creek Helm forks I've been using it with. Thanks to magnets, the tool sits to the side of the Clutch cap and being wrapped in rubber it doesn't make a peep. It adds a bit of time to remove the tool compared to running it in my handlebar but I don't mind taking an extra thirty seconds when I need a tool on the trail.
Inclusive to Fox*, RockShox, Manitou, and Cane Creek I have yet to come across a fork that Giant's Clutch Fork system won't easily install into and I've had no issues with their insert coming loose or popping out on the trail even having pulled it and reused it multiple times. I haven't used a nicer multi-tool trailside than the EnCase so this combo seems like a no-brainer production colab between the folks at Giant and Wolf Tooth.
*It likely does not fit the new Fox 38 due to the oval steerer
Crankbrothers Mallet DH x Shoes
Shimano has been pushing the benefits of using their shoes and pedals together as a system for a while now with the latest iterations of their trail and DH pedals offering a maximized interface. On paper, this adds confidence and watts through increased support without having any negative effect on clipping out.
I've used plenty of different shoes with Shimano pedals over the years and I think there's a solid argument that most companies closely match up with Shimano's lug heights in order to ensure SPD compatibility with their pedals. For those that aren't perfect, it's easy enough to add a cleat shim to find the sweet spot.
What strikes me as strange is that with other companies making shoes or pedals, but not both, that no one is combining with HT, Time*, Look, or Crankbrothers to offer a colab shoe & pedal setup designed to work as a perfect pairing.
*Mavic offered re-branded Time pedals but there was nothing special about using the shoes or pedals in concert.

Wider stance, pins down, soft flat-soled shoe, and cleats mounted rearward. I think the best combination of what I love about flat pedals and clipless pedals is achieved starting with the Mallet DH pedal.

Bontrager's Rally clip-in shoe has been my best personal experience thus far but I have no reason to think running the right cleat height with a FiveTen, Leatt, RC, or etc boot wouldn't also deliver great results.
I both loveriding flat pedals and suck at it, especially on my single speed, but I have discovered my ultimate clipped-in compromise. I combine the float & feel of Crankbrothers winged eggbeater clip-in system (the wide stance and big body of the Mallet DH specifically) with a flexible shoe that lets me load into the platform of the pedal like riding flats. It works amazingly. I shim the cleats out just enough so my rear-mounted cleats disengage effortlessly when unloaded but I get as much support when pedaling as any combination of carbon soled XC-shoe and pedal I've tried.
The best shoe-pedal combination I've found could actually be called a colab. After all, Crankbrothers sponsors Trek's Enduro race team and that's who worked with Bontrager's design team to develop these shoes. Presumably, Bontrager doesn't push that point for fear of discouraging sales to the majority of clip-in riders who run Shimano pedals.
Crankbrothers doesn't make shoes. With the Big-S exception, companies making skate-style clip-in shoes don't make pedals. Not everyone wants that rigid standing-on-a-pedal clipped in feeling but it's nice to have carbon-esque support when pushing down on the pedals. This seems like such a great opportunity for someone to run with.
Magura x Formula x Hope
Either no one can explain how my favourite colab came about, or possibly no one wants to. Either way, most folks I talk to have no idea that there's actually, practically, a handlebar clamp standard in the bike industry that makes multiple brands clutter-reducing accessories interchangeable.
Magura, Formula, and Hope all share, at least in a close-enough-is-good-enough approximation, the same two-bolt brake lever clamp dimensions and I've taken advantage of this multiple ways. First, by buying Hope clamps to run Shimano I-Spec shifters with Magura brakes before they made their own system and most often by swapping my Wolf Tooth ReMote clamp between Formula and Magura brakes.

I've run the Magura ReMote with Formula Cura and Magura MT brakes. I've also seen one mounted to a, non-MatchMaker, SRAM Guide T brake.

With variations of lever length v. clamp positioning it's nice that the ReMote has some side-to-side adjustment.
Currently in the immediate bikes I routinely service, mine, my wife's, and my brother CTK's, have a Magura ShiftMix clamp on a Formula Cura Brake, two Formula Cura MixMaster clamps on Magura MT brakes, and a lone Magura ShiftMix clamp actually holding a Shimano I-Spec shifter to a Magura brake.
The different clamps produce different angles and positions and it's quite lovely being able to optimize de-cluttering hardware for lever position. For example, I run my brake levers much more French than CTK does and that has a large effect on our dropper post remote positions v. having a dropper post remote clamped separately.
Lately, I've discovered dropper post lever nirvana with the inboard-but-forward position delivered by a Magura ShiftMix MatchMaker clamp, mounted to a Formula Cura 4 lever, with the new e13 three-position dropper remote that comes with their Vario dropper.

This 11spd GX shifter, with e13 12spd guts, on a Formula MixMaster clamp, spent most of its life mated to a pair of Magura MT 5 master cylinders.
Given the rampant incompatibility, I'm surprised that these companies aren't advertising the interchangeability of their accessories, and that more aftermarket brands aren't offering their takes on accessory mounts using this two-bolt standard.
The big takeaways for me are that quite often a company's decluttering mounts won't provide enough adjustment range - angle or side-to-side - to work as well as keeping separate clamps but mountain bikers are absolutely drawn to the clean appearance of combining brakes, shifter, and dropper levers into a single pair of clamps. By thinking outside a specific brand it's easy to optimize for the angle and position of your brake levers relative to your grips.

Lately, dropper post nirvana for me has combined the new, MatchMaker compatible, e13 remote mated to a Magura ShiftMix clamp.

I've mainly run it with a pair of Formula Cura 4 brakes with their longer lever blades. Paired with Magura's HC lever I prefer to the right-hand ShiftMix for the left lever.
No vaporware here! All these hidden collaborations are readily available or a crank-bolt away from a DIY package. From modifying frames to run stealth dropper routing to lowering forks for freeride-stiff, XC-travel packages, to cutting tires, to friction shifters that can run any drivetrain, and beyond, I think a huge part of mountain biking is about riders innovating using what they already have.
What have you drilled holes in lately?
Comments
Reuben.Sandwich
3 years, 6 months ago
A 230 x 65mm metric sized shock (RMB Slayer, Pivot firebird etc) is exactly 11mm shorter in both dimensions than a standard 9.5 x 3 DH shock. Jam an 11mm spacer in the negative chamber and away you go. I have converted two coil shocks thus far for my Slayer that have cost 5/8 of FA to buy and sold the first at 150% profit because it was "new" and "metric" and "so enduro".
I mated a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub gear to a Shimano front shifter in 1997. My pub bike was dialled even though I couldn't legally go to the pub...
I'm also offering my angle grinding services to anyone that wants to shoehorn a Fox 36 internal into a 35mm Rock Shox chassis.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
Should throw some props to Rocky here for making it possible by not going on-trend and swapping over to Trunnion Mount!
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
What’s are you trying to accomplish in making a FoxShox? Putting an RC2 FIT cartridge into a Yari?
Reply
Mondoss
3 years, 6 months ago
This is a clever conversion for a coil shock, but it’ll cook an air spring curve pretty good.
Reply
JT
3 years, 6 months ago
A buddy who works at a bike co-op at a local high school got a donated SB66 frame that he sold me for a song, a very short song. Problem with it was the 20" seat tube and it didn't have internal routing. With warranty thoughts no where to be had, I lopped off 35mm from the top of the seat tube and poked a hole through a spot in the BB forging (after consulting a friend who's a prototype machinist) to run a 150mm dropper. I wasn't looking to go back to 26 from my 27.5, but Yeti>Trek near any model year.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
Aluminum SB66? I have cut down, and re-slotted, a couple of aluminum seat tubes now but I have yet to do a carbon frame.
Reply
Dan
3 years, 6 months ago
"BB forging" to me suggests to me that it's an alloy frame. ;)
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
Totally, but truth told I can't remember how Yeti used to assembly carbon frames so I was thinking for a moment that maybe the SB66 carbon had an aluminum lug.
Reply
Tjaard Breeuwer
3 years, 6 months ago
The first video I found online about cutting down your seat tube was a carbon frame. I think it was some online bike shop owner or such, can8t remember exactly.
Reply
JT
3 years, 6 months ago
Yup, the Al version. It was a helluva deal, but not THAT much of a deal :D
Reply
Andrew Collins
3 years, 6 months ago
Why not just use a Oneup EDC in the steerer tube?
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
I mean, lots of reasons. First reason to combine Clutch X EnCase is because I could. It’s a powerful motivator.
Also, as noted, the EnCase tool is the nicest I’ve used trailside. It’s lovely.
I’m very fond of OneUp’s EDC combined with their (excellent) mini pump but I’ve never been into threading my steerer tube (not that I think it’s a structural issue or anything) and in use I’m less of a fan of their stem-preloader.
Reply
AndrewR
3 years, 6 months ago
The fact that it voids the fork warranty is a good starting point. I have my OneUp EDC in my OneUp 100ml pump attached to my bottle cage.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
On paper, that's true (modifications void warranty) but on the ground, I've never heard of a single brand denying a warranty of a CSU threaded for the EDC and I've been involved with plenty of people's claims.
And that makes sense, I mean, there's no link between cutting some threads in the top of your steerer tube and said steerer coming loose in your crown.
Also, because I'm a cynical jerk, I'm suddenly wondering what the record is for most EDC installs for a single fork (due to CSU replacements). I guess at some point you'd just buy the (excellent) pump and store the tube in there to save the hassle.
Reply
Vik Banerjee
3 years, 6 months ago
The way most riders think warranties work and they way they actually do is pretty divergent based on what I read and hear people say.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
You see it all the time working in shops - especially with suspension - where riders wear stuff out and because it’s within a certain time frame they demand a free replacement despite warranties covering “defects in manufacturing or materials” only. No sympathy - companies have all put themselves in this position.
Reply
Vik Banerjee
3 years, 6 months ago
My two rules for getting warranty help are:
1. Don't be a dick.
2. Have reasonable expectations.
I usually end up happy. And more than once I have received above and beyond CS when I had an issue that was not covered by the warranty, but I asked politely if there was anything we could do to keep "X" product out of the landfill.
For the most part I am impressed by how great the MTB tech we get to use these days is and how well it works for a long time despite my craptacular maintenance skills.
I remember when we rode MTBs on the weekend maybe once and then took it to the LBS to be fixed for the next weekend.
I thrash my bikes now mercilessly and 9 out 10 times they be like "That's all you got chubby?" ;-)
mrbrett
3 years, 6 months ago
Specialized SWAT? Tool is $120 CAD and no tapping ...
Reply
JohnC
3 years, 6 months ago
Somewhat related to your article, how has the E13 conversion to 12 speed on your GX 11spd been working out? Have been considering it for some time as the 42 top 11spd gear is just a bit large for long climb days.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
I’ve had really good experiences with e13 11spd and 12spd cassettes. I really like the new assemblies with the pinch bolt.
I think that shifter (GX + e13) is potentially the best non-AXS SRAM shifter you can buy. The cartridge bearing smoothness of higher end shifters with the long paddle and stiffness that has had a number of riders choose to run GX shifter with the higher level drivetrains.
Reply
AndrewR
3 years, 6 months ago
Agree re the updated pinch bolt versions of the e13 cassettes. Reliable, silent and shift well. Handy to be able to buy the new upper cassette portion (the part that generally has the wear that leads to the change of cassette). That said I am looking at less than 0.25 wear on an XX1 Eagle chain after 1600 km and other than some cosmetic wear on the coating on the X01 Eagle cassette I am looking at a drive train that will last longer than I generally keep my bikes.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
The top-end SRAM cassettes hold up really well. Still hard to justify the eye-boggling cost of entry though.
Reply
kekoa
3 years, 6 months ago
Ha! The TLD underwear colab comment made me laugh. Tried them in lieu of spandex last week and it was interesting. Need to play to with my saddle choice and angle a bit...
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
Hahaha. This is awesome.
Hope they work for you! Definitely made me aware of saddles that suck (whether in general or just for me).
Reply
blaklabl
3 years, 6 months ago
So Andrew, the crank bolt acts as the magnet draw to the base? And do you need to pull out the aluminum bar end caps or just get a new rubber sleeve and push the crank bolt into it?
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
The bolt acts with the magnetic base & has the proper OD to fit tightly in the sleeve. It's not permanent by any means and it's easy enough to pop the stock aluminum bar end back into place.
The aluminum bar end caps have a nice, tight, fit but they can be removed and installed by hand.
Reply
AndrewR
3 years, 6 months ago
@Andrew Major. Got to love your willingness to experiment! My latest experiment is plasti-dip on metal brake levers as I really dislike cold levers on bare finger tips and the electrical shock I get when passing under hydro lines. https://www.instagram.com/p/CB1s2VnntjF/
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
Do you notice a big difference in the cold? Negative impact to feel the rest of the time?
The difference between my carbon levers and aluminum levers is incredible.
Reply
AndrewR
3 years, 6 months ago
It hasn't been very cold but one can feel the difference with a 5º drop so I imagine it will be even more noticeable in the autumn. It is nice to be able to ride Hot Dog Alley and any trail that passes under hydro lines and not get zapped too!
They are also grippier for wet finger tips in the rain than the standard metal.
I have dipped all my metal brake levers now and will continue to do so from now on.
Reply
minotaur
3 years, 6 months ago
Been drilling quite a bit of holes lately :)
https://www.instagram.com/p/CB8AFrRlBDf/
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
Look sweet!
How do you get both levers to be exactly the same? A jig of some kind?
Reply
minotaur
3 years, 6 months ago
These are made from scratch with CNC equipment :)
I found the levers of the Formula "Racing" models (pull master cylinder) were way too flexy.
It took a while but well worth the effort. They now brake as they should, without mushy feeling or delay.
The drilling is for grip: anodized aluminium is very slippery.
Reply
danimaniac
3 years, 6 months ago
Have you tried if the Formula/Magura Clamps are interchangable with the Hayes ones? It sucks how there's only a Peacemaker Clamp for the right side available from Hayes. That puts my dropper-lever too far inboard.
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 6 months ago
I would have noted it for sure if Hayes were also interchangeable.
Reply
danimaniac
3 years, 5 months ago
About that. Magura Shiftmix seems to work:
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/hayes-dominion-bremse-im-test-massive-rueckkehr-mit-vier-kolben-update.874668/post-16762088
Reply
Andrew Major
3 years, 5 months ago
I guess I should have spent more time on that comment. Magura, Formula, and Hope are all nicely interchangeable.
I mounted up the Dominion brakes using plastic and aluminum Magura clamps (holes are quite a bit larger for the coarse hardware) and they technically work (the Hayes hardware is much smaller). Other clamps I tried didn't work cleanly (some modification would have been necessary) so I am not comfortable referring to them as interchangeable from the perspective of an NSMB.com reader.
If I thought they were interchangeable, to this standard, I would have noted it along with the other brands.
My perspective here is that someone may go out and spend their hard-earned money on something (none of these mounts are cheap) on my recommendation and then it will not work to their satisfaction.
Put another way, I modify stuff all the time to make different stuff work together but I don't call those products interchangeable or compatible if you can't simply and cleanly bolt them together out of the box.
Hope that's helpful.
Reply
Dakeyras
3 years, 3 months ago
Hi Andrew,
i've got a question about that. when using magura clamps or the wolftooth magura clamp, is bolt length an issue? the original formula clamps seem to be much thicker than Magura or Wolftooth. i am wondering if the original formula bolts might be to long when using thin clamps like the wolftooth ones.
(btw what size and thread standard are the original formula bolts?)
cheers
Georg
Reply
Please log in to leave a comment.