justwan-naride profile

My point is that a 200$ open face helmet does not offer multiple times the protection of a 50, 80, 100$ open face helmet from an equally reputable manufacturer. If they could prove that they offer X times the protection I wouldn't be complaining about the price. The comment above by Jonas Dodd based on his experience even suggests that there may be a design flaw on the product.

Have fun with the condoms!

Seriously, is there anyone that would pay 200$ for a half lid? I got my my Giro Feature for a quarter of that.

Assegai on 35mm is amazing, but mates run it on 30mm and there are no complaints. For me with the wider rim it's the best combo I've used so far. I suspect it was the extra width that allowed me to use an EXO casing at low pressures without stability or burping issues during summer.  Back on EXO+ now though, mostly for the maxxgrip rubber.

As mentioned above, i35 can be sub-optimal for a few 2.4's, I found Magic Mary became unpredictable at a certain lean angle and Michelin Wild Enduro is already very square on i30. 

If you intend to use 2.6 tyres then 35mm will give a better shape overall, but after using 2.6 for two years and recently returning to 2.5 I've concluded that 2.4-2.5 is better overall. 2.6 offers a bit more monster-truckability, but misses on precision and quick side to side leaning. 

For the rear wheel 2.4 on i30 is fine, but i25 was great too, a bit quicker side to side again.

Short version: i30 is the safest option for 2.4-2.5 and i35 is good for 2.6+.

On the recommendation of the local DT Swiss distributor when I asked them to replace a failing WTB Asym i23, rim of choice was the DT E512 (i25) laced on my existing rear hub using DT butted spokes (2.0-1.8-2.0). This wheel lasted 4 years on my hardtail, only bike at the time, rode around 3.5000km/year on average then. It wasn't dent proof, but it stayed true despite my best efforts. Adding a Rimpact at some point stopped extra dents too. When I sold it with the frame it was still true and held air despite some permanent deformation at the bead area.

When time came for a new bike I went the familiar way and laced a M542 (i35) on the front and a E532 (i30) on the rear on Hope hubs I got from a friend. My reasoning being that the front will acommodate a larger tyre and will take less beating, hence the wider but lighter rim. I've been using a Nukeproof ARD insert since day one on the rear wheel as I wanted to avoid dents this time. It has required retensioning once after a year or so, but no other issues. I have them on a Privateer 141 and ride "enduro" type stuff plus the occasional race and shuttle day. Admittedly I'm light and not particularly fast but our terrain is very rocky and unforgiving.

They're very decent budget rims IMHO, can be found at very reasonable prices at German stores and according to the people that have laced them for me are easy to build. Don't underestimate the importance of who's going to build them though, as the quality of the work is apparantly crucial for the wheel's longevity.