Taz123 profile

Socks or no-socks? How high is the risk of "foot-swamp"?

I'm a Clydesdale-sized rider and while I love the Turbines + vaults, I have struggled with the rear vault hub reliability. After some time, they tend to develop a creak, which has been found to be shell/body interface glue starting to disengage. I've gone through two hubs with this issue.

Having said that, RaceFace warranty is amazing and they replaced them without a challenge.

The semblance to "Cable" from Deadpool 2 is uncanny. :)

I managed to snap my Achilles about 5 yrs ago while stepping forward in a warm up for a volleyball game. I'm in the 30-50 range, in good shape - bike, workout, ski and no history of achilles issues. Apparently the largest percentage of achilles injuries happen from stepping out of the house onto your deck - its totally random.

I did the surgery route at Lionsgate - it all went ok. I had a full detachment (the Thompson test made be scream). 4 weeks in a half-cast, 8weeks or so in a boot where you start with heel-lifts and take one out each week. Getting the stitches out was the biggest pain for me of the whole ordeal. The biggest win for me was getting a "iwalk". Yes you look like a pirate, but you have pretty awesome mobility and two free hands for beer and wings - you can even go up/down stairs. Forget the scooter, get the iwalk. Showers are a bad idea until you can stand...

Recovery - 2 months and on a trainer while wearing the boot (I looked cool), month 3 unclipped on the trainer, clipped at 4-4.5months (being clipped was very helpful in reestablishing flexibility). 5 months on the bike (light road) and 6 was a gentle ride on Bobsled. In my case the damaged leg was my "rear" leg while riding, so the bouncing of mountain biking on flow trails with a full suspension bike was good stretching rehab. Month 6 included lots of laps of highschool league, Bobsled, empress bypass and eventually JD and Expresso - the jank is hard on the leg, so I took it really slow. I had written off the ski season (and putting my new-shaped ankle area in to a boot the first time the next October was excruciating). I got back to some light low-leg workouts at month 6 (i.e. weights), but took it very slow.

I was back to full strength in ~10 months, flexibility took time. My calves and lower leg shape are now different left to right "I'm unique", but I've managed to get strength fairly balanced. Wobble-board or bosu were very helpful (or even standing one-footed on a pillow) was good to do while watching tv.

Good luck in the recovery - feel free to message or PM me for any advice or recommendations.

Such a good beer!

I've got 2 years on a set of 30mm Turbines...and I'm not a twig, nor do I pick the best lines. 

The rims are solid and very durable. I run ARDs and have had no issues with the rim aside from the odd dent that can be worked back into shape. 

The wheels track really well (when the spokes are tight). As for the hub, the engagement is great and I have to admit they are very easy to maintain. I rode them for over a year without the weather seal, because I damaged it (not recommended). I just replaced the pawls and freehub body after they were skipping due to wearing away from grime (remember no weather seal) and it was an easy process.

Good note about side-load risk on a shock. 

I don't think that is an aspect that many folks think about when selecting a bike and/or shock. An editorial about the forces a shock sees may be of interest. Which suspension design places extra stresses (not uppy-downy ones) on the shock assembly vs. others? Why is coil better than air for side-loading? Do we assume the shock spec'd with the bike is the best design for longevity and not just riding performance? What are some signs to watch out for? I'm sure there are other questions that newbs all the way to expert riders would appreciate.

Running dual Nukeproof ARDs on Assegai/DHRII (EXO+) no issues for my 220# Clydesdaleness on the shore. I did shorten them a bit as they do swell a bit.

The only flat I've had was due to a snapped spoke pushing through the rim-tape...not an insert-related failure.

I discovered this hack a few years ago - adult elbow pads can also be cheaper than kids knee pads.

I agree with a previous comment though, soft-pads (a la D3O) are better than hard shells. Depending on the design and strap locations, I have found having my grom wear tall socks help manage hot-spots. 

The other key aspect is for parents to be the example - wear your knee pads and show how they don't bother you - your little-un will want to follow suit...cause you are still cool in their eyes.

it looks "slabulous"

To each their own. I do change to different tires for summer/winter though. 

I've failed with Continentals in the past, but have had success with Schwalbe. I'm now settling with Maxxis and tend to check the bins behind shops to look for rear-tires or to have a spare or two at home. I tend to buy fronts.

Hardtail: Shorty maxxgrip DH casing, Dissector Maxxterra rear (EXO) w insert

FS (160/150): Shorty Maxxgrip DH casing, DHR2 Maxxterra rear (EXO) w insert

I'll run DHR2/DHF/AG in the front in the summer - usually Max Terra. Summer rear is more open-ended. I just retired an Aggressor that I had a hate on for...there won't be a sequel.

Guessing the older Swagman racks - they don't make them anymore.

I've got both the wet and dry lubes from Whistler Performance Lubricants (WPL) and they work pretty well on the Shore.

Found the issue - not the wheel/hub at all. I swapped to a different (new) wheel and the rattle continued. 

In the end, the removeable drop outs were loose on the frame - once tight, no more rattle.

Agreed - used wheel (backup) that I don't use too often - make sense if it the bearings are knackered - spins smooth though.

The hub bearings? ok, I hadn't thought of that - it is an "experienced" wheel.

I could use some help. My rear wheel is "rattling" while the axle is tight. I have tightened the axle and rear hub (even removed the cassette), but when I grab the wheel, I can shift it back and forth - almost like there is some clearance issue between the hub and the axle.

Any thoughts or ideas on what I should do? I've layered the axle with grease to help reduce some of the "play", but this doesn't feel like a sustainable solution.

I'm a fan of Shimano Zee's - lots of power and easy to maintain.

They are hard to find, but I use a latex pillow (better for allergies) from Sleep Country. Pricey, but comfy and less sniffles.

I'm in the Diamond love-it camp as well. Easy to self manage - and having S-WERX for overhauls is perfect.

Once you get the OTT Setting sorted, the fork comes alive.