AndrewMajor profile

What fork & shock are you running?

Bike pictures?!

Cheers! Both very clean-looking bikes.

I've never ridden one to be able to comment. I wonder where the flex would be coming from though? The front triangle and rear swingarm are formed aluminum (I assume they made them like Orange?), it has a through-axle and beefy-looking bolt-on dropouts. 

I have ridden the following rig though, the Session 10, and it was a HP+I beast. The only complaint I think folks could apply to that bike is it was a tank.

Also, when I Googled the Session 10 these photos came up on PinkBike, and I had to share them. I'm in love but I'm still not sure if in general I should be saying 'sorry' or 'you're welcome':

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Anyway, where my mind always goes when I think of the Session 10 is this fellow I bumped into once or twice going up Fromme single-ringing a Session 10 with a last-gen Monster-T. Must have weighed 50lbs? Beast mode.

"and a bike with Hope on the rear and Shimano on the front"

Oh, mix-matched brakes make me happy on a weird level. I saw a bike once with Race Face Atlas cranks with one blue arm and one orange arm and I've known since that it could be my vibe. 

But somehow mix-matching pedal colours doesn't do it the same for me. It has to be the cranks. 

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And yeah, Claire and I were taking brake pad inventory yesterday and I was thinking back to this conversation. With my wife running Magura Trail brakes I need to have 4-piston pads and 2-piston pads. Then I have Claire's Guide pads. Formula 4-piston pads in sintered and semi-metallic (I'm a nerd). Hayes 2-piston and 4-piston in semi-metallic. Bleed kits and fluid for everything. 

My tiny workspace is actually closer to being a bike shop then not a bike shop. I mean, as long as you run 6-bolt rotors and 11-spd chains.

I think the main turn-off was just the academic idea that it was a performance improvement over B-148. You know, the theoretically stiffer and stronger wheel. The fact is that the reasons that Pivot introduced SB-157 are all irrelevant for most mountain bikers now: 27x3.25" tire clearance / super short chainstays / front derailleur clearance. 

Personally, and this comes from the joy of riding a single-speed, I would like to see mountain bikes getting narrower, not wider. This is the key feature that drew me towards gearboxes as well. I certainly clip derailleurs more often on SB-157 bikes than B-148 bikes. 

But if 55mm (or wider) chainlines are going to be normal then there's a new strong argument for SB-157 or some Cannondale-esque offset to get better alignment in the low gears.

There's a reason I do 'teardown' pieces rather than 'how to' pieces, certainly. It's hard to cover off all of the possibilities with a job like removing pistons. And the reason most brands sell piston kits (pistons and seals) is that even the best techs I know have damaged a piston or two in their time. 

As with many things, Knipex parallel pliers can be your friend. Usually, you'd get the pistons out as far as possible hydraulicly and then split the caliper in half. That's the process that was used here.

"I'd like to think I arrived at the similar "ideal bike" conclusion on my own, but I don't want to take away from your social influence skills. So powerful!"

HAHAHAHA. Beautiful. 

My favourite messages about my "influence skills" are the ones from friends attributing the rise of Lilac to me and my Walt V2. It's always nice to know some folks in my corner think my influence could be that outsized!

I say more random; other folks certainly disagree and say on average less engagement makes their suspension better. I wrote a piece on hub engagement inspired by Ryan Walter’s WeR1 review. I won’t try to sum it up in a post, but if you’re interested it’s here: https://nsmb.com/articles/varying-degrees-of-engagement/

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There were a few companies (Norco’s Horst-link bikes a few generations ago specifically come to mind) using a bit of initial chain growth to try and improve pedaling efficiency but it wasn’t a good trade off traction wise. And that’s a bit of growth, a bike like the Chainsaw would be brutal.

There’s a good reason you aren’t seeing high pivot bikes without idlers.

Trek actually patented a 2x idler/front derailleur in order to sell a Freeride version of their Diesel DH Bike pre-1x drivetrains. 

Never made it to market, but a cool concept I’d love to try. 

The DH version was such a clean/neat looking bike (to me at least):

Nothing to do with hub engagement really; without the idler (or a massive chain ring to put the chain in line with the pivot) the chain growth is extensive through the travel/extension and so the kickback is aggressive. Pumping the bike it would be trying to pull your cranks backward all the time. Landing a drop you’d have to fight to keep your feet on the pedals and that in turn would negatively impact the suspension. 

Yeah, it’s not like companies (Trek & Cannondale among them) didn’t try HP bikes without idlers in the distant past (3x cranks). The only reason they work now for non-DH rigs is the advent of 1x drivetrains and the addition of idlers.

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The positive flip side is that with an idler in the right spot the suspension action is not influenced by the drivetrain. The Chainsaw pedals beautifully across rough terrain and it’s very easy to ride downhill in terms of how awesome the rear suspension works.

Posted by: Endurimil

The whole earlier discussion of less waste reminded me Andrew your article on what is in your pack. You mentioned the maple syrup one use tube. Share what I learned. Back in 2002 when got into trail running there was lots of options sought in the ultra trail running crowd to gels. Maple Syrup was one option used by some and I carried it in a gel flask. 

To be honest haven't touched gels in almost 20 years. If I do decide to start using maple syrup on rides I'll go down to the store to buy some maple syrup and put it in a gel flask like used to. Cheaper and less waste. And one less thing to potentially litter the trail with.

Yeah, it's a question of the best container. That tube was a gift but I'll admit there are times when a hit of maple syrup is the right instant boost. Those soft silicone gel flasks always strike me as something that must get gross pretty quickly no?

Posted by: snowsnake

frustratingly, the best LBS around here is the Tr*k store, and there’s one mechanic at the aforementioned shop who is good, and is helping me learn to rebuild the post. I do almost everything in the HBS when I can get away with it.

There’s a reason for that. I know plenty of great shop folks who’ve left to do something less stressful and far less skilled for substantially more money. 

The way we pass on knowledge in shops (teach future mechanics) the impact of someone great leaving can’t just be measured as one person. 

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Put another way, I’m a grumpy and opinionated asshole who wrenches part time / flex-time around my kid’s schedule, riding bikes, and writing for NSMB, and who isn’t around for a couple of weeks in the summer, and I had a positively flattering number of shop owners/managers ‘wondering what I’m up to’ over the last couple years. 

That’s how short the industry is for wrenches.

Posted by: snowsnake

Posted by: AndrewMajor

Posted by: fartymarty

Looks like PNW have stock - I just need to fork out the £45

Much less expensive than a new post, and easy to install one's self. Assuming the post still runs tight, a bit of Slickoleum on the seal head at the same time and it'll feel decently close to new and it's a swap pretty much anyone can do. 

It's one challenge that comes up in talking to folks about a fully rebuildable option like a BikeYoke Revive. The full service (labour, seals, and material) is more expensive than chucking a new cartridge into a Wintek post, and it's not something that everyone is going to be comfortable tackling at home. The Revive is so smooth and something that will last years and years, but then the dropper post's only job is to make the seat go up and down so something that performs sweet-and-smooth may not be a priority.

That’s what has me going back and forth between a BYR and a Oneup for my 200+mm dropper for the SST.

OneUp has great after sale support, an extra size of pins (for when they get a lot of play), and replacement cartridges aren’t ridiculously expensive. They’re almost as short as the Resolve (essential matched) for the same drop and the quality/$ is solid. 

No matter what you do to a OneUp post it will never be as smooth as a BYR. I’ve worked on plenty of both. The only negative of the BYR is the height (above and below) for a given amount of travel, if clearance in either direction is an issue, and the additional cost. 

Have had quite a few friends and customer agonize over the choice. Not something you’re buying every year.

Posted by: Endurimil

Sad reality is the one truly rebuildable dropper post is no more as of last year. Gravity Dropper closed there doors last year. 

Though IRD sold a dropper post very similar in how it worked. Though it could have been the same as the one offered by TMARS who as I recall was the original copy of the Gravity Dropper from Taiwan. Recall think it was on MTBr and the Singletrack Mag forums where UK riders talked about tearing them apart and so on.

There are a number of fully rebuildable dropper posts on the market - BikeYoke Revive, Wolf Tooth Resolve, 9Point8 Fall Line. It's easy enough to get your hands on an e13 TRS+ if you want a coil-sprung post you can tear into. I know a couple of folks who've picked those up for free (just sweat equity). 

I've rebuilt plenty of Gravity Dropper posts, including installing and shaving down new guides to try and find the perfect balance of sliding and play. There was a time and a place for them but it was a long time ago. They didn't keep up with folks' preference for saddle drop or their expectations for smoothness. I'm certain if they're your preference it won't be difficult to keep finding them in excellent condition for a very small investment for years to come.

There's a dusting of snow today when you punch out onto the road at the top of No Quarter. 

Posted by: fartymarty

Looks like PNW have stock - I just need to fork out the £45

Much less expensive than a new post, and easy to install one's self. Assuming the post still runs tight, a bit of Slickoleum on the seal head at the same time and it'll feel decently close to new and it's a swap pretty much anyone can do. 

It's one challenge that comes up in talking to folks about a fully rebuildable option like a BikeYoke Revive. The full service (labour, seals, and material) is more expensive than chucking a new cartridge into a Wintek post, and it's not something that everyone is going to be comfortable tackling at home. The Revive is so smooth and something that will last years and years, but then the dropper post's only job is to make the seat go up and down so something that performs sweet-and-smooth may not be a priority.

DB8 power and feel are essentially identical to the SRAM G2 RE***. That is to say, it has a firmer initialization compared to the Code R but less power. Whether they have enough 'bite' for you is going to be personal. I'm happy enough with them on a trail bike but wouldn't cheat on rotor size. 

They're a two-syringe bleed like other SRAM brakes, Formula brakes, and Hayes brakes. No easier or harder than bleeding any of those systems. 

Do note that SRAM has a specific bleed kit (M4 fittings) for them so that folks wouldn't accidentally use DOT fluid with them. I haven't used any kits other than the SRAM mineral oil bleed kit to bleed them, but it's possible that other mineral oil bleed kits would fit if you're comfortable taking a chance with different mineral oils cross-contaminating. 

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If you're looking specifically at mineral oil brakes, for a similar amount of money (SRP) I'd choose the Magura MT-5 over the DB8 just down to raw power. Then I'd use aftermarket pads with the MT-5 to keep the cost of ownership similar. 

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***Not to be confused with the G2. The G2 RE, like the Guide RE before it, uses an older Code caliper with a G2 primary cylinder.

Posted by: Endurimil

Have spotted on Amazon a couple of dropper seatposts that look similar to Brand X droppers. Just checked the PNW website and their Cascade post looks very close to the Brand X version with the external cable routing.

Probably the same factory that makes various versions with slight variations that get shipped from a different loading dock.

It’s good to be aware that while many factories build product for many different brands, and while those products may look similar, there is a huge range of quality available. 

With dropper posts it’s most often notable in the quality of the seal head and the tolerances of the sliding action and these things do make a big difference to performance and longevity.

Talking about Wintek cartridge posts (which most less-expensive posts are) there is also a range of quality when it comes to the cartridges. For example, the cartridges I’ve pulled out of Crankbrothers posts have been significantly smoother and quieter than Wintek cartridges I’ve pulled out of some other posts. 

TL;DR - many things that look the same externally are not the same internally.

Posted by: tashi

To add to this: there’s a lot of work that’s fine to do for yourself or a friend, but if it’s a “this will probably work, let’s try it” kinda repair/work than it doesn’t make sense to charge good money and possibly trash your reputation by trying it.

For example I love old red brick for walkways but I’ll never install one for a customer again since they require far too much upkeep to stay in good condition and safe and the odds of the customer not understanding this are high.

Definitely. Actually, one of the things I loved about wrenching during the Covid parts shortage was the compact with customers to repair unserviceable things as best as possible to keep them riding. 

It was fun to get paid to fix stuff - nowhere near ‘like new’ - and have folks stoked to pay for the time. When there was nothing available folks were much more understanding of ‘better than it was’ reputation wise. I always felt actually heard when explaining the potential outcomes.

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On the other side of it - MEATengines related - I enjoy rebuilding things like seized Guide brakes where folks choose to upgrade rather than pay for service (two master cylinder rebuilds and bleeds are well on the way to much better brakes) and then give them away. 

I have a ‘Give The Gift Of Guides’ update coming in January as I need some help finding homes for brakes now.

Now that more and more budget bikes have drilling for dropper routing I might consider adding that too. At least for ones that are easy to sort, like Wintek cartridge posts. 

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The red brick path triggers some nostalgia for me. My Grannie & Grandad had a red brick driveway. Every so often (I can’t recall how many years in between) they’d have the guy who put it in come back and pull up all the bricks, re-level the drive, and place them back down. 

I don’t know how the cost of ownership compared to asphalt or aggregate but environmentally it must be significantly better.

Posted by: fartymarty

Super annoyingly I have a Brand X 200mm dropper that I can't get a cartridge for as no one stocks them atm.  Worst thing is it was only 6 months old.

Is it just a Wintek cartridge or something else? 

If it’s a Wintek cartridge then chances are some other brand’s cartridge fits.